Għadam tal-Mejtin – Malta’s “Bones of the Dead”: A Sweet November Tradition

The month of November holds a very special place in the Maltese calendar. It’s a time steeped in faith, remembrance, and sweet traditions that connect us to generations before us.

I always find it fascinating how the Maltese can turn even the most solemn of occasions into something beautifully comforting… often involving food, of course.

A Month of Remembrance: All Saints’ and All Souls’ Days

In Malta, the 1st and 2nd of November are sacred days: All Saints’ Day (Jum il-Qaddisin) and All Souls’ Day (Għid l-Irwieħ).

All Saints’ Day is dedicated to honouring all saints, both known and unknown, those who’ve lived lives of faith and virtue. The following day, All Souls’ Day, is when we remember the departed, our loved ones who’ve passed on. It’s a time of reflection, prayer, and remembrance.

Traditionally, families attend special church services, light candles, and visit cemeteries to clean and decorate graves with fresh flowers. The island takes on a calm, reverent tone and is a moment of pause in an otherwise busy world.

But as is true of so many Maltese customs, amidst the reverence, there’s always room for a touch of sweetness.

The Sweet Side of Tradition: Għadam tal-Mejtin (Bones of the Dead)

Despite its rather macabre name, Għadam tal-Mejtin is anything but gloomy. These traditional almond-filled pastries are Malta’s way of celebrating life while remembering those who came before us.

Literally translating to “Bones of the Dead,” these sweets are often shaped like bones… a little morbid but a playful nod to their name and are enjoyed throughout November. You might also hear them called Għadam ta’ Novembru or Għadam tal-lewż (almond bones).

They’re somewhat similar to our beloved figolli, the almond-filled Easter pastries Malta is famous for. In fact, my għadam recipe is the same one I use for figolli – a buttery shortcrust pastry filled with almond paste that melts in your mouth. It’s that perfect mix of crumbly and soft, especially alongside a hot cup of coffee.

A Bite of History

The tradition of Għadam tal-Mejtin dates back centuries, influenced by Catholic customs that spread across Southern Europe. Many Mediterranean cultures have their own version of “Day of the Dead” sweets – Italy’s Ossa dei Morti and Spain’s Huesos de Santo being close relatives.

In Malta, as with so many of our dishes, we took those influences and made them our own by combining religious symbolism with that unmistakable Maltese love for pastry and almonds. These little treats remind us that food isn’t just sustenance… it’s memory, culture, and connection.

My Family Recipe

Every Maltese family has their own version of Għadam tal-Mejtin, and no two are ever quite the same. But they all share one thing: a delicious almond filling wrapped in golden pastry that brings comfort and nostalgia in every bite.

I’ve been making them for years now, often doubling the recipe so there’s enough to share with friends and family because just like figolli, they disappear fast!

Remembering with Sweetness

So, while November might sound like a somber month on paper, for Maltese families it’s one filled with warmth… Candles flickering in memory, the scent of baking pastry filling the air, and generations gathering to share stories of those who came before us.

For me, Għadam tal-Mejtin isn’t just a pastry. It’s a reminder of my roots, of family, and of the way we Maltese always find a little sweetness, even in solemn moments.

_{If you would like to read about a particular foodie topic feel free to drop me a line via tmc_charmaine@thefoodiemama.com.au or direct message me on my Instagram @_thefoodiemama}

_{As published on The Voice of the Maltese 5 November 2023.}